Proceedings

The 1999 UNC Sometimes Annual Phytogeographical Excursion

South Florida

March 5-13, 1999

Participants (from left in photo): Rob McDonald, Weimin Xi, Mark Knott, Jason Fridley, Rachel Hochman, Mary James, Ken Wurdack, Becky Brown, John Boetsch, Bob Peet

Local Guides: Jim DeCoster (Everglades National Park), Eric Menges (Archbold Biological Station), Mike Ross (Florida International University), Jim Snyder (Big Cypress National Preserve), Monica Swihart (Key Largo).

Itinerary

March 5 - Friday Driving South

Depart Chapel Hill ca 4:30 pm.

March 6 - Saturday Everglades Introduction

USGS: Goulds; Flamingo; West Lake; Mahogany Hammock; Pa-hay-okee Lookout Tower; Long Pine Key; Royal Palm Ranger Station.

6-1 Larry & Penny Thompson Park: Miami rockland

Group campsite on Long Pine Key

6-2 Everglades NP: Cypress head

6-3 Everglades NP: West Lake, Mangrove Trail

6-4 Everglades NP: Flamingo area: Eco Pond, coastal prairie

6-5 Everglades NP: Wet sawgrass and hardwood islands

6-6 Everglades NP: Mahogany Hammock

6-7 Everglades NP: Sunset at Pa-hay-okee tower

March 7 - Sunday Coral Reefs and Fairchild Tropical Garden

USGS: South Miami

7-1 John Pennekamp State Park: Coral Reefs

7-2 Fairchild Tropical Gardens

7-3 Matheson Hammock

March 8 - Monday Vegetation of the Keys

Depart campground at 7:15; meet Mike Ross at 7:45 am in Florida City. Mike joined us for the day, as did Jim DeCoaster. Mike arranged Key Largo entrance permission with Pennekamp.

USGS: Garden Cover; Big Pine Key; Summerland Key

8-1 Key Largo Hammocks Botanical Preserve

8-2 Big Pine Key NWR: Pinelands

8-3 Big Pine Key NWR: Quasi-alvar (Strumpfia site)

8-4 Big Pine Key NWR: Hippomane Hammock

8-5 Big Pine Key NWR: Cactus Hammock

8-6 Big Pine Key NWR: Coastal berm forest

Evening - Dinner with Jim DeCoster & Monica Swihart

March 9 - Tuesday Long Pine Key; eastern Everglades

Led by Jim DeCoster

USGS: Long Pine Key; Royal Palm Ranger Station.

9-1 Everglades NP - Long Pine Key: Pineland

9-2 Everglades NP - Long Pine Key: Pineland-swale transect

9-3 Everglades NP - Long Pine Key: Savanna

9-4 Everglades NP - Taylor Slough

9-5 Everglades NP - Long Pine Key: Anhinga Trail

9-6 Everglades NP - Long Pine Key: Gumbo-limbo Trail

March 10 - Wednesday Turner River Canoe Trip

USGS: Ochopee; Chokoloskee; Royal Palm Hammock.

10-1 Turner River: Freshwater riparian

10-2 Turner River: Mangroves

10-3 Turner River: Shell middens

10-4 Big Cypress NP: Cypress Trail

March 11 - Thursday Big Cypress Preserve & Fakahatchee Strand

Tour of Big Cypress led by Jim Snyder

USGS: Deep lake SW

11-1 Big Cypress NP - 11 mile Rd: Cypress prairie & heads

11-2 Big Cypress NP - Raccoon Point: Old-growth pineland

11-3 Big Cypress NP - Raccoon Point: hardwood hammock

11-4 Fakahatchee State Preserve: Hike to lake

11-5 Fakahatchee State Preserve: Pine savanna

March 12 - Friday Archbold Biological Station

Introduction to Archibold by Eric Menges

USGS: Venus NW; Childs; Crewsville.

12-1 Archbold BS: Scrub west of Headquarters

12-2 Archbold BS: Red Hill sand pine and turkey oak scrub

12-3 Archbold BS: South end - scrub,rosemary balds, swales

12-4 Highlands Hammock State Park

Mar 13 - Sat Lake Wales Ridge & Driving North

USGS: lake Arbuckle SW, Juniper Springs

13-1 Ken's favorite scrub

13-2 Ocala Chamaecyparis swamp

Mar 14 - Sun Drive to Chapel Hill

Arrive Chapel Hill ca 7:00 am

Accommodations

March 5 (Fri)

Sleep in cars while driving

March 6, 7, 8 (Sat-Sun-Mon)

Everglades National Park

Long Pine Key Campground - Group Camp.

Reservation ID=455-592; Account ID = 330-655

Call 1-800-388-2733

March 9, 10 (Tue-Wed)

Collier-Seminole State Park

16 Miles west of Everglades City turnoff from US 41

Phone 941-394-3397; 8-6 office hours

Gate is LOCKED at sundown; need to call ahead during the day to get the combination (1984).

March 11, 12 (Thu-Fri)

Archbold Biological Station

Reservations made with Penny DeVane

941-465-2571

March 13 (Sat)

Sleep in cars while driving

Proceedings

Saturday - March 6

Respectfully submitted by Jason D. Fridley,

Proofread by Kenneth J. Wurdack (though with disdain).

No sleep. Fortunately Citrus is in the air as we ramble through Palm Beach County, the most highly productive vegetable area in the US. If this county were ranked as a state, it would fall in number 37.

At seven in the morning, after the first of what would be too many shuffles about for an eating joint, we arrive at “Pearl’s” just outside of West Palm Beach. Apparently Rob’s grandmother is our waitress. I find out that, now some 24 hours without sleep, I’m to record for the day. Thank God for coffee, grits, and ESPN Sportscenter. Indeed, after remarking on our first Melaleuca in the parking lot, Mary concludes, “This place is awesome. A real gem.” I somehow remember to write that down.

It’s at about this time, pulling back onto I-95, we realize that at 4 am we inadvertently drove off from a 7-11 gas station without paying for the fuel of one of the Burbans. While waiting for a visit from the state patrol, all blame is placed on Rob, who was driving the vehicle in question at the time. The “cool” van (no one under the age of 27 admitted) cares less, and Digable Planets, Blues Brothers, Phish, Johnny Cash, and Fishbone help numb our minds. This will become essential preparation for the week ahead.

Roadside plants abound, including:

Casuarina equisetifolia (Australian Pine)

Pinus elliotii var. densa (South Florida Slash Pine)

Araucaria excelsa (Norfolk Island Pine, commonly planted)

Roystonea elata (Royal Palm)

Serenoa repens (Saw palmetto)

Coco nucifera (Coconut palm)

Cassytha filiformis (the love vine!)

Coccoloba diversifolia (Pigeon Plum)

Fortunately, the “old van” remembers something about Rachel and airplane, and we arrive at Miami International just in time for the pick up at 8:45 am. From here, it’s only a quick jaunt to Larry and Penny Thompson Memorial Park and our first Miami oolite rocklands. Mary is ecstatic.

Representative plants:

The landscape cover changed from a dry Melaleuca quinquenervia-dominated one to a wet, mangrove dominated one (esp. Red mangrove, Rhizophora mangle) with the occasional patch of sea grape, Coccoloba uvifera.

At ~12:30 we returned to the dock, at 12:45 we returned gear, and ate a quick lunch in the parking lot of Silent world.

Fairchild Tropical Garden

We then headed north on US 1 towards Fairchild Tropical Garden. On the way north we spotted more spoonbills and a green heron. We arrived at Fairchild at 2:30, where they’re so hip they even have orchids growing in the parking lot. Some random highlights:

Among the Cycads (at least the best collection in the Western Hemisphere)

Dypisis decori, Dioon edule, Encephalantas brispinosis, Lots of Zamia: pumila ssp. pumila, cernophila, skinneri

Many huge Live Oaks (Quercus virginiana) which were colonized by resurrection ferns.

Lepidozamia hopei, Visitona morei, Cocos nucifera, Mangifera indica.

Huge begonias, the likes of which I hadn’t seen.

Lots of palms of all sort (again, the best collection in the Western Hemisphere)

Cartozania eurphyllidia, Episcia spp., Monelena primulaeflora

Lots of Lycopodiums

n the greenhouse: Niphidium crassifolia, Pepinia sanguinea, Amorphophalis titanum (which has huge flowers), Dracontum dresslei, Gessnaracea (aka African violet), Theobroma cacao (aka cocoa), Freycinecia amingiania.

Various Orchidatha spp, Anithurums from South America.

Wonderful Starfruit that one could eat.

Bletic purpurea (an orchid), Manilkara zapota (where sapodillas come from).

I learned that most philodendrons are ephiphytes, which I didn’t know.

· A particularly pretty palm: Areca catechu.

A plant with huge spikes along the stems: Chorsia speciosi.

Ravenia hildebrundii.

An everglades species, Acoelorrhaphe wrightii.

From the himalayas, Melicaceas.

An avacado tree, Persea americana.

Large, 17’ DBH Eryhthrina variegata.

An Ipomea pauciflora that was a tree.

A tree with odd pipe-cleaner sort of flowers, Occilipha hispida.

Lots of legumes to please Mary, including Acacia sphaerocephala.

And a large banyon tree.

Jason’s favorite flowering vine of all time, Mansoa alliacea.

Many large cacti, including Opuntia montiforus.

From the banana genus, pleuranthodium.

A showy heath-like plant, Protoacea.

Generally, the trip to the gardens was a success. The family gardens were incredible.

Matheson Hammock

The visit to the Garden was followed by a short excursion into the adjacent Matheson Hammock. This is one of the best remaining areas on hammock vegetation left in the Miami area. Sadly, exotics are doing well here. No formal species list was assembled, but we saw such native species as Piscidia piscipula, Ficus aurea, Bursera simaruba, Eugenia axillaris, Eugenia confusa, Prunus myrtifolia, Psycotria nervosa, Quercus virginiana, Coccoloba diversifolia, Mastichodendron foetidissimum, Chrysophylluym oliviforme, Ocotea coriacea, Simarouba glauca, Ardisia escallonioides and Ken's beloved Drypetes lateriflora.

Monday - March 8

Vegetation of the Keys

Compiled by John Boetsch (Hammocks) & Rob McDonald (Pinelands)

Led by: Mike Ross

Joined by: Jim DeCoster

We awoke in the wee hours of Monday to a light breakfast of coffee (or maté for some of us), bagels, yogurt and juice. We then departed to meet Mike Ross at the Hampton Inn in Florida City. Mike introduced us to his ongoing research into the altered hydrology of south Florida, and described current efforts to restore the flow of fresh water into Biscayne Bay.

Mike explained that the hydrology of south Florida has been seriously altered by drainage canals for irrigation and flood control, as well as a lowered water table by reduced recharge and pumping for irrigation and water supply. As a result, salinization is changing the community composition of coastal areas. This effect is most pronounced along the coastline, especially peripheral to major diversions of overland flow.

The change in community structure and composition is readily detected with aerial photography. Mike pointed out to us that the white bands on air photos indicate areas of reduced productivity. The white signature is actually the marl depositions secreted by the periphyton; the darker areas indicate healthier freshwater areas where periphyton is still active. Mike noted that the salinity of pore water is roughly 35 ppt along coast; this RISES inland (due to evaporation), then abruptly drops as one encounters freshwater influx. Salinization has induced a transition from Cladium-Eleocharis dominance toward mangroves, or alternatively toward Batis-Salicornia-Distichilum in the hypersaline flats. The aerial photos indicate that a significant amount of land area has been converted by salinization.

Of relevance to the upland hammocks we were to visit, Mike told us that most of the tree islands (primarily upland hammocks) in areas of reduced overland flow are now largely invaded by Casuarina. Mike wrapped up the car-hood introduction by describing the numerous efforts currently being proposed to restore the flow of freshwater to the sounds and to Biscayne Bay.

Chastain Hammock on Key Largo ‑ maximum elevation 17 feet

We drove south to Key Largo, and parked on the main road adjacent to Chastain Hammock. Mike Ross obtained in advance the privileged permission required to take us into Key Largo Hammocks Botanical Preserve. We were led from our vehicles into the hammock, which is comprised of stands of varying age that are rebounding from agricultural clearing. Succession more or less follows a trend from deciduous to evergreen species. Mike told us that most leaf litter accumulates between March and May, and that organic matter can accumulate over several years to depths of approximately 2 dm.

Prior to clearing for agriculture, disturbance in these upland hammocks was primarily by fire, which tended to burn off accumulated dry matter and set the stage for succession by other vegetative components. Hurricanes have recently defoliated this stand, and we observed evidence of this from Hurricane Mitch in 1998.

Important species included:

Exostema caribaeum (Rubiaceae)

Amyris elemifera (Rutaceae), torchwood ‑ trifoliolate shrub

Bumelia salicifolia (Sapotaceae)

Bursera simaruba (Burseraceae), gumbo-limbo

Eugenia axillaris (Myrtaceae) ‑ peely bark on older specimens

Metopium toxiferum (Anacardiaceae) ‑ orange mottled bark; in canopy

Guettarda scabra (Rubiaceae)

Psychotria nervosa (Rubiaceae), wild coffee ‑ lvs simple, opposite, glossy, nervous!

Coccoloba diversifolia (Polygonaceae) ‑ resists wind damage

Ardisia escallonioides (Myrsinaceae)

Ateramnus lucidus (Euphorbiaceae) ‑ lvs simple, glossy, nervation disorganized

Bourreria ovata (Boraginaceae), Bahama strongbark

Chiococca alba (Rubiaceae)

Lysiloma latisiliquum (Fabaceae) ‑ invader; lvs compound, even‑pinnate

Piscidia piscipula (Fabaceae), fish poison/Jamaican dogwood

Lasiacis divaricata (Poaceae), wild bamboo ‑ native; only common grass in hardwood hammocks

Krugiodendron ferreum (Rhamnaceae) ‑ lvs simple, opposite

Colubrina elliptica (Rhamnaceae), soldierwood

Exothea paniculata (Sapindaceae), inkwood ‑ lvs compound

Mastichodendron foetidissimum (Sapotaceae), mastic ‑ shaggy bark; in canopy

Drypetes diversifolia (Euphorbiaceae) ‑ bark mottled w/ white lichen; lvs simple, elliptic, coriaceous

Calyptranthes pallens (Myrtaceae), spicewood ‑ fragrant; lvs opposite, simple, lanceolate; nodes knotty

Ximenia americana (Olacaceae), hog plum ‑ lvs simple, lance‑elliptic; stems thorny; dark green‑black bark

Drypetes lateriflora (Euphorbiaceae) ‑ lvs elliptic, non‑symmetrical

Guapira discolor (Nyctaginaceae), blolly ‑ lvs simple elliptic, opposite or alternate; midrib translucent

Ficus citrifolia (Moraceae) ‑ lvs cordate, longer petioles rel. to leaf than F. aurea

Zanthoxylum fagara (Rutaceae), wild lime ‑ lvs odd‑pinnately compound, lflt margins crenate, rachis winged

We crossed the road and headed “downhill” toward the coast. At elevations of approximately 5 feet above sea level, the vegetation was comprised of shorter-stature trees. We observed a reduction in soil depth, and the increased exposure of bare rock.

Upland hammocks on the Keys are often surrounded by what shows up as a white band signature on aerial photographs (not more white bands!). Rather than the result of salinization or a sign of marl deposition, this signature is the oolitic limestone that characterizes uplands in south Florida. Transition zone with this white signal often has sparse cover of Conocarpus and other transitional trees and shrubs.

Pithicellobium guadalupense (Fabaceae) ‑ lvs twice compound, only 4 leaflets!

Smilax havanensis (Smilacaceae)

Eugenia foetida (Myrtaceae), Spanish stopper ‑ twigs orange‑brown; lvs obtuse, oblong; tends toward lower elevations in hammocks; resembles privet!

Bumelia celastrina (Sapotaceae) ‑ lvs narrowly oblanceolate

Manilkara zapota (Sapotaceae), sapodilla ‑ fruits edible; planted & naturalized

Borrichia frutescens (Asteraceae)

Capparis flexuosa (Capparaceae), limber caper - lvs elliptic, coriaceous

And in an open area approximately 30 m broad:

Conocarpus erectus (Combretaceae), buttonwood

Laguncularia racemosa (Combretaceae), white mangrove

Spartina sp. (Poaceae)

Batis maritima (Bataceae), saltwort

Borrichia frutescens (Asteraceae)

Sesuvium portulacastrum (Aizoaceae) ‑ prostrate, red stems; opp lvs; succulent

And finally the vegetation became dense again once we entered the intertidal zone. The ground was covered with black mangrove seedlings. The only species were Avicennia germinans and a few specimens of Rhizophora mangle. UTM 566337e, 2787930n.

Pinelands of Big Pine Key

We arrived at Big Pine Key at 1:30 or so in the afternoon after spending the morning botanizing on Key Largo. Mike Ross was still leading the tour, with Jim DeCoster tagging along. Many of the sites we visited were part of Mike Ross’ research, and on some of the plots he controlled the burning regime.

Our first spot (UTM 17, N 461382, E 2732941) was a pine rockland that had patches with different fire histories which allowed us to see the different stages of recovery after a fire. Pines were relatively small, but their branching architecture suggested substantial age. A couple cores suggested an ago of 90 years might be typical. Some of the species seen (among others- some comments from Wunderlin):

Acacia pinetorum (Pineland Acacia)- A calciophyte, this specimen was unfortunately dead.

Andropogon virginicus (Broomsedge Bluestem)- probrably var. glaucus.

Anemia adiantifolia (Maidenhair Pineland Fern)- Limestone outcrops in pinelands.

Byrsonima lucida (Long Pine Key Locustberry)- Rocky pinelands on Long Pine Key.

Coccothrinax argentata (Silver Palm)- Rocky pinelands, rare.

Croton linearis (Grannybush)- Sandhills south of Martin County.

Ernodea littoralis (Beach creeper)- Dunes in the central and southern peninsula.

Metopium toxiferum (Poisonwood)- Far too common near edge of pineland.

Morinda royoc (Redgal)- Common in coastal hammocks.

Phyllanthus spp. (Leafflower)- a common genus with many members in the keys.

Pinguicula spp. (Butterwort)- Probably pumila, although not identified.

Pinus elliottii var densa (Slash pine)- This plant was the dominant canopy tree in the pinelands. One was 12.3” DBH and was cored to be ~ 90 years old.

Pteris bahamensis (Bahama Ladder Break)- Rocky pinelands and edges of hammocks.

Reynosia septentrionalis (Darlingplum)- supposedly likes hammocks and mangrove margins.

Rhynchosia parvifolia (Small-Leaf Snoutbean)- Pinelands and beaches.

Schizachyrium sanguineum (Crimson Bluestem)- aka semiburbe, this likes disturbed sites.

Sorghastrum spp. (Indiangrass)- Common genus throughout South Florida .

Thrinax morrisii (Key Thatch Palm)- Hammocks, rare.

Mike Ross believes that before development, fires would occur every ~15 years. Now, of course, fires are less common, resulting in less pinelands and more hammocks.

On the way to the second site a key deer was spotted, to the excitement of all those who didn’t blink.

Quasi-alvar vegetation of Big Pine Key

The second site (UTM 17, N 461232, E 2731635) was a barren looking site that had low-lying vegetation. The flat Key Largo limestone tableland with virtually no soil and diminuitive vegetation gave the site the aspect of alvar vegetation. The frequency of storm overwash is unclear, but could be an important factor. There was an odd ditch that ran thorough it; Mike believes the ditch was originally for drainage, but as it is now full of water the plan clearly didn’t work. The bambusia fish certainly like it. Some of the species spotted include:

Aster tenuifolius (Perennial Saltmarsh Aster)- Brackish marshes.

Cladium (Swamp Sawgrass)- probably jamaicense.

Crossopetalum rhacoma (Maidenberry)- Pinelands and hammocks, rare.

Froelichia floridana (Cottonweed)- Sandhills, dry hammocks, and disturbed sites.

Jacquinia keyensis (Joewood)- Occasional in coastal hammocks.

Manilkara jaimiqui (Wild Dilly)- aka bahamensis, probably subspecies emarginata.

Onosmodium virginianum (Wild’s Job’s Tears)- Mike Ross called this the Wild Billy Tree.

Panicum virgatum (Switchgrass)- widespread habitats, likes disturbed sites.

Schoenus nigricans (Black Bogrush)- marshes, calcareous bogs, and flatwoods.

Sophora tomentosa var. truncata (Yellow Necklacepod)- Coastal strands.

Sporobolus virginicus ( Seashore Dropseed)- Common in disturbed saline areas.

Strumpfia maritima (Pride-of-big-pine)- The common name says it all. Rare. Only locations in the US are on Big Pine Key. Similar in aspect to a dwarf Ceratiola

Big Pine Key hammocks:

After a long drive out to Big Pine Key and a few wrong turns for orientation, we set out for a Big Pine Key example of hammock vegetation. This vegetation was relatively poor compared with hammocks northward on the Keys. Mike Ross emphasized to the group that, other than time since the last fire, there is little difference in site characteristics between pine vegetation and hammocks in the Keys. We observed a very gradual transition between the two vegetation types while walking through. Also noted were the relatively shallow organic soils, compared to those in Chastain hammock earlier in the day. Eventually we reached mangroves again, on the northwestern edge of the island.

Notable Pineland species observed on route included:

Acacia pinetorum (Pineland Acacia)- A calciophyte, this specimen was thankfully alive.

Acrostichum danaeifolium (Giant Leather Fern)- likes brackish and freshwater marshes.

Agalinis spp. (False Foxgloves)- probably divaricata.

Andropogon virginicus (Broomsedge Bluestem)- probrably var. glaucus.

Ardisia escallonioides

Argythamnia blodgettii (Blodgett’s Silverbush)- aka Ditaxis blodgettii.

Aristida spp. (Threeawn)- species not identified.

Bursera simaruba (Gumbo-Limbo)- Coastal hammocks and shell middens.

Byrsonima lucida (Long Pine Key Locustberry)- Rocky pinelands.

Chrysophyllum oliviforme (Satinleaf)- Hammocks and pinelands.

Croton linearis (Grannybush)- Sandhills south of Martin County.

Eugenia axillaris (White Stopper)- Coastal hammocks, rarely inland.

Guettarda scabra (Rough Velvetseed)- Hammocks and pinelands, rare.

Metopium toxiferum (Poisonwood)- Common in hammock.

Morinda citrifolia (Indian Mulberry)- Hammocks in the keys, rare.

Morinda royoc (Redgal)- Common in coastal hammocks.

Pathenocissus quinquefolia (Virginia Creeper)- An old friend

Pinus elliottii var. densa (Slash pine)- This plant was the dominant canopy tree in the pinelands.

Randia aculeata (White Indigoberry)- coastal hammocks.

Reynosia septentrionalis (Darlingplum)- supposedly likes hammocks and mangrove margins.

Senna mexicana (Chapman’s Wild Sensitive Plant)- aka Cassia chapmanii.

Tillandsia spp. (Airplant)-one of the many epiphytes spp.

Notable hammock species included:

Pinus elliottii var. densa

Metopium toxiferum

Ardisia escallonioides (Myrsinaceae)

Eugenia axillaris, E. foetida (Myrtaceae)

Piscidia piscipula (Fabaceae)

Croton linearis (Euphorbiaceae) ‑ long, slender lvs; light pubescent below

Cassia chapmanii (Fabaceae) ‑ low shrub

Pithicellobium guadalupense (Fabaceae)

Coccoloba diversifolia (Polygonaceae)

Bursera simaruba (Burseraceae)

Chrysophyllum oliviforme (Sapotaceae), satinleaf - brown velvety below!

Simarouba glauca (Simaroubaceae), paradise tree

Myrsine floridana (Myrsinaceae) - resembles Ardisia, but with axial-cauline flowers; thick twigs & branches; lvs dull, dark green, oblong w/ emarginate apex

Hippomane mancinella (Euphorbiaceae) - rare, highly toxic tree; nearly eradicated intentionally; lvs simple, ovate, cordate, fig-like

Thrinax morrisii (Arecaceae), Key thatch palm

Cupania glabra (Sapindaceae) - endangered; resembles Simaruba; lvs odd-pinnately compound, lflts alternate on rachis

Parthenocissus quinquefolia (Vitaceae), Virginia creeper - amazingly, we all recognized this one!

Southeast end of Big Pine Key - “Cactus” hammocks

In for some Cereus bidness, we headed to the southern terminus of the island, where the limestone outcrops. This area is along the junction of the Key Largo limestone with the Miami oolite. Species diversity was not altogether impressive, however we were lucky enough to find specimens of the endangered Cereus robinii (Cactaceae), in this, the once only known location for the species (UTM 466187(or was it 461382)e 2725528n). Other species included Conocarpus erectus, Eugenia foetida, E. axillaris, Metopium toxiferum, abundant Tillandsia usneoides, Capparis flexuosa, Amyris elemifera, and the titillating “dildo cactus”, Cereus pentagonus. All in all, a whole lot of fun!

A last stop before the drive back was along a berm forest on Big Pine Key, which had been seriously disturbed recently by storm damage the previous fall. The Overwash had buried the previous surface with nearly a foot of sand and damaged many plants. Dominants included: Metopium, Bursera simaruba, Coccoloba uvifera, Piscidia piscifolium, and Bumelia celastrina.

We continued to the beach to swim, but were too tired and too cold to take advantage of the opportunity. However, cool fossils and a good view of the sunset was found.

The evening was spent with welcome showers and dinner at the home of Jim DeCoster and Monica Swihart – the main course was fresh fish, with a wonderful salad on the side, finished off with home-made Key Lime pie (Ken’s recipe, reputedly, and reported to be the best key lime pie Rob had ever had). We left fairly early to buy provisions at a grocery store in Key Largo and deposit Mike Ross at his car before heading back to the campsite for a much-needed sleep.

Tuesday - March 9

Long Pine Key with Jim “Geum” DeCoster, Hillary Cooley (Botanist), and Steve McMahon (Lizard Behavior). All working for Bill Platt (LSU).

Compiled by: Mary M. James & “Gentleman John” Boetsch

We awoke early at the Long Pine Key Group Campsite, and said a tearful goodbye to our lovely base camp of three days. Attachments were strong, yet so were our adventuresome spirits. We knew we must press on. Strong doses of delicious French press coffee proved particularly helpful to those who used to think that 7 o’clock only came once a day.

We began the day parked along a dirt road on Long Pine Key (#1), where the largest remaining stands of pine rockland are to be found. Jim DeCoster delivered an informative summary of historical fire regimes in the Everglades, and also described some of the research he has been doing with Bill Platt. The impacts of fire regime and Hurricane Andrew on species diversity are a major focus of their work in the Everglades.

As Geum spoke, we had the opportunity to visually assess differences in structure and composition of pine rockland with differing fire histories. On both sides of the road the canopy was comprised solely of ~60 year-old Pinus elliottii var. densa (PIELD). One side, however, had been burned every 2-3 years in recent times, and the other side had not burned in the past 10 years. Geum & Co. established modified GOS plots in these stands and others to determine that diversity decreases 10-15% at all scales when pine rockland goes unburned for 10+ years.

The fire program in the Everglades has changed dramatically since the park was first established in 1948. In the mid-1950’s successive droughts resulted in the spread of large, devastating fires throughout the park. Official interest in prescribed burning mounted in the late-1960’s. For the first 20 years ENP burned only during the dry season (Nov-March). Eventually, in the mid-late 1980’s, the park implemented growing-season burns.

Long Pine Key is divided into 12 fire blocks. Every 2-3 years (in theory) these receive an early burn (April-June) or a late burn (July-Oct.). The sampling protocol also differentiates between “wet” and “dry” years, but the past 12 years have been wet, causing some confusion. According to Geum, the early burns tend to be larger, hotter, and more favorable for flowering of grasses such as Andropogon cabanisii (Firegrass). Some suggest that periodic winter burns would be beneficial for landscape heterogeneity and shrub diversity. However, dry winter burns tend to severely decimate the organic matter in pine rocklands, at times causing considerable stress to the PIELD and making them more vulnerable to beetle attack.

The variability of substrate conditions in pine rockland enhances the diversity of these systems. Subtle changes in elevation also have a profound effect on species number and composition. In general, the low pinelands are the most diverse, especially at larger scales. Geum’s record for a 0.10 ha plot was 127 species, and 40+ species/m² have been reported from some of the glades. Many of the dominant grasses are well segregated by elevation:

High Mid Low (Glades)

Andropogon cabanisii Muhlenbergia filipes Panicum virgatum

Sorghastrum secundum Eragrostis elliottii Panicum hemitomum

Schizachyrium gracile Aristida purpurascens

Stop #1: 8:45 am: UTM: 535638 E; 2808998 N

Dominants: Pinus elliottii var. densa, Andropogon cabanisii, Serenoa repens, Sorghastrum secundum, Schizachyrium gracile, Pteridium caudatum, Dodonea viscosa, Toxicodendron radicans.

Others: Guettarda elliptica. Guettarda scabra, Myrsine floridana, Cirsium vaittatum, Randia aculeata, Agalinus sp., Metopium toxiferum, Tetrazygia bicolor, Melanthera angustifolia, Crotolaria pumila, Byrsinema lucida, Cassytha filiformis, Polygala boykinii, Cassia deeringiana, Rhyncosia reniformis, Echites umbellata, Bourreria terminalis, Angadenia sagraei, Tragia saxicola, Dichromena floridensis, Zamia pumila, Chiocacca parviflora, Licania michauxii, Smilax auriculata, Buchnera floridana, Pityopsis graminifolia, Liatris gracilis, Jacquemontia curtissii, Chloris radiata, Ruellia caroliniana.

Before making our way to the next spot, we made an impromptu stop along another dirt road to view the troublesome “Cogon Grass” (Imperata brasiliensis/cylindrica?). To date, it is uncertain whether this grass is a native or an exotic, but it is well-adapted to fire. Cogon grass is already a major threat in northern FL, and it is becoming a serious pest in pine rocklands. It tends to be more of a problem in moist depressions of the high pinelands. At this spot, it was accompanied by: Ilex cassine, Coreopsis leavenworthii, and Rhus copallina.

Stop #2: 10:00 am: UTM: 537190 E; 2809267 N

Next along the way was the famed “Cliff” of the Everglades, a breath-stealing precipice we traversed most gingerly. In the course of several hundred meters we descended a full 2 meters in elevation. Fortunately, none of the party suffered any nosebleeds, but Jason did exhibit signs of oxygen deprivation when we first got out of the vehicle. Nicely arrayed along this transect were examples of high, medium, and low pinelands (glades), each complete with the indicator grasses mentioned above.

Beginning with the High Pineland, the Dominants were:

Pinus elliottii var. densa, Andropogon cabanisii, Schizachyrium gracile, Pteridium caudatum, Byrsinema lucida, Cassia deeringiana, Aster adnatus.

Others: Coccothrinax argentata, Myrica cerifera, Sabal palmetto, Zamia pumila, Dodonea viscosa, Bumelia salicifolia, Coccoloba diversifolia, Lantana involucrata, Lantana depressa, Hyptis alata, Dicromena floridensis, Guettarda scabra, Guettarda elliptica, Lysiloma latisiliquum, Chamaesyce adenoptera, Cynanchum blodgettii.

As we descended along the transect, turnover among grass species indicated that we had reached the “medium” rockland. PIELD density remained about the same. New species included: Digitaria villosa, Shizachyrium rhizomatum, Senna chapmanii, Citharexylum fruticosum, and the occasional Forestiera segregata. Once we had reached the very edge of the glade, we picked up Samolus ebracteatus and Melanthera angustifolia.

The glade itself was predominately composed of graminoids and completely devoid of PIELD. In the main part of the glade, Cladium jamaicense was the dominant species.

Others: Muhlenbergia filipes, Schizachyrium rhizomatum, Spartina bakeri, Panicum hemitomum, Panicum tenerum, Paspalum monostachyum, Erianthus giganteus, Aristida purpurascens, Rhyncospora microcarpa, Serenoa repens, Myrsine floridana, Persea borbonia, Randia aculeata, Bumelia salicifolia, Bumelia reclinata, Cephalanthus occidentalis, Chrysobalanus icaco, Schinus terebinthifolius, Stillingia sylvatica (var. tenuus?), Centella asiatica, Saggitaria lancifolia, Elytraria caroliniensis, Diodia virginiana, Hymenocallis palmeri, Heliotropium polyphyllum, Iva microcephala, Asclepias lanceolata, Eupatorium mikanoides, Sida elliottii, Liatris spicata, Linum medium, Ipomea sagittata, Piriqueta caroliniana, Sabatia grandiflora, Ruellia caroliniana, Ludwigia microcarpa, Proserpinaca palustris, Borreria terminalis, Pluchea rosea, Solidago stricta, Erigeron quercifolius, Aletris bracteata, Calopogon tuberosus, Vernonia blodgettii, Lobelia glandulosa, Hypericum sp., and Polygala sp.

Near the center of the glade was a small hole that, purportedly, remains wet most of the year, in contrast to the greater glade which is inundated 2-3 months/yr. In the hole was a small, dense stand of Salix caroliniana. Neighboring or co-occurring species were: Mikania scandens, Bacopa caroliniana, Phyla nodiflora, Phyla stoechadifolia, Teucrinum canadense, Polygala carnata, and Dichanthelium sp.

Stop #3: High Noon in the F-1 Block:

Our last stop before lunch was a fine-textured glade in the F-1 Block. Small-scale diversity was exceptionally high, in the 40 species/m² range. Only a few stunted PIELD’s were present along the edges of the glade.

Dominants: Serenoa repens, Rhyncospora divergens, Muhlenbergia filipes, Cladium jamaicense, and Centella asiatica.

Others: Lobelia glandulosa, Polygala balduinii, Aletris bracteata, Borreria terminalis, Rhyncospora microcarpa, Elytraria caroliniensis, Samolus ebracteata, Ludwigia ebracteata, Pluchea rosea, Sabatia grandiflora, Stenandrium dulce, Croton linearis (discolor), Polygala grandiflora, Bumelia reclinata, Pityopsis graminifolia, Dyschoriste angusta, Linum medium, Aristida purpurascens, Evolvulus sericeus, and Stillingia sylvatica.

Everglades continued

Compiled by Mark Knott and Ken Wurdack

We examined an area immediately east of the Taylor Slough Bridge on the Everglades National Park road. The Taylor Slough is a deep channel that carries water throughout the dry season, even when the surrounding marsh has dried up. It provides the main source of freshwater for northeast Florida Bay. Following the drainage and divergence of freshwater moving through the Everglades, commercially important Florida Bay fisheries began to decline as the result of increasing salinity of its waters. The integrity of the Florida Bay ecosystem depends on the input of freshwater from the sloughs draining the Everglades, so as a restoration effort the installation of pumps along C-111 and the lengthening of bridges (with causeway reduction) will likely increase the freshwater flow into Taylor Slough and into Florida Bay.

Sources:

1. http://www.nps.gov/htdocs4/ever/current/bacher.htm

2. http://www.nps.gov/htdocs4/ever/current/fbn96a-4.htm

3. http://www.nsp.gov/htdocs4/ever/eco/habitats.htm

4. http://www.nsp.gov/htdocs4/ever/current/fbn96-3.htm

5. http://www.nsp.gov/htdocs4/ever/ed/schools4.htm

The soils we walked on were moist and spongy and marl deposits were seen on the vegetation providing a high water mark. In our brief stay, we looked at plants, birds, apple snail eggs, and had a group photograph taken. Jim DeCoster and two other folks who work in ENP were our guides for the day. The object of our stop was to see the amaryllids and both were found in flower about 0.1 mi east of the slough channel at an elevation of ca 1 m. The vegetation was discreetly zoned and the lilies grew with the Eleocharis and not in the Cladium dominant communities. The Crinum seeds are chlorophyllous at maturity, surrounded by a thin papery brown skin and angular. The identity of the dispersed seeds was debated until a mature fruit was found. Some Salix islands were also seen along the slough.

On the road again …

Following our last look at the Everglades, we hopped in the vans and headed to Collier-Seminole State Park. Along the way, we stopped for a final taste of the “Roberts is Here" fruit stand” and saw agriculture (to Jason’s delight): mango (Mangifera) and banana (Musa) plantations, assorted citrus, tomatoes, nurseries (cut flowers, etc.). We also saw some large Ficus benjamina. We stopped at the Preston S. Bird and Mary Heinlein Fruit and Spice Park: Botanical Garden and Fruit Shop, but they wanted $3.50 for the 20 minutes between our arrival and closing time, so we left without exploring it. Mary and Ken picked some voodoo rattle beans. The next impromptu stop was the Big Cypress Gallery (52388 Tamiami Trail). The large format photography of Clyde Butcher is featured in a modern gallery in the middle-of-nowhere swamp. He specializes in south Florida landscapes and is fond of swamps. We continued west on the Tamiami Trail. Canal on right. Water ‘management’ structures to release water in the Everglades from the North. Various wetland birds seen, very narrow release points created by gates certainly disrupt historical sheet flow of water moving south. Big Cypress, palmetto and perhaps Cladium prairie with cypress heads. We set up camp under the headlights at Collier-Seminole and then set our sights on the closest place to eat (The Swamp Buggy Grill – as colorful as the name suggests and the race it commemorates, in a tacky, bad-food sort of way).

Wednesday - March 10

A Canoe Journey Down the Turner River

Compiled by E. Rachel Hochman

By bustling through a breakfast of bagels, cream cheese, yogurt, and granola, oh -- and of course the ever important caffeine burst of coffee, hustling to make lunches capable of withstanding the south Florida heat, and snatching water bottles, sunscreen, guide books, binoculars, sunglasses, etc., we managed to bust out of Collier-Seminole State Park prior to 7:30 am (with Bob’s subtle urging, of course).

Then we were en route to the Everglades National Park Boat Tours (EBT) somewhere outside of Naples, FL. As usual, the van driven by Jason swayed with music traveling the hours drive to the park. Upon our arrival, Bob set out for the office to request the boats we had so carefully reserved prior to our departure of NC. The contact at the desk, however, had obviously never set foot nor posterior into a canoe, nor had she understood Bob’s request so she sent him on a wild goose chase to speak with park rangers who attempted to dissuade us from our course due to the windy conditions. Finally, after multiple discussions with rangers, a series of wrong charges on the bill and a little more general confusion on the part of EBT we loaded into a van towing our boats and made way for the put-in. During the ride we were given advice (?) on a restaurant for the evening. (A little foreshadowing here).

The put-in was replete with Hydrilla verticulata, Salvinia, Azolla, Pistia stratiotes and Typha. The H. verticulata was so thick at first that it made the initial paddling a slow endeavor.

Also at the put-in enjoying the sun and the water were:

Tricolor Heron	Anhinga
White Ibis	American Alligator

Among other plants in the canal and along the banks we saw:

Acrostichum danaeifolium	Cornus foemina
Chrysobalanus icaco	Myrica cerifera
Cladium jamaicense	Persea borbonia
Acer rubrum	Annona glabra
Cladium jamaicense	Fraxinus caroliniana
Sabal palmetto	Salix caroliniana

Paddling was imperative on this extremely low-gradient river and paddle we did, south towards the mangrove forests and tunnels. While maneuvering through the tight twists and turns of the tunnels we saw:

Rhabdibdinea sp.	Rhizophora mangle
Tillandsia setacea	Tillandsia fasciculata

Tillandsia valenzuelana

After exiting the tunnels we took a GPS reading: E 472536, N 2862573

We found ourselves in a more open area surrounded by:

Blechnum serrulatum	Pontedaria cordata var. lancifolia
Rhizophora mangle	Sabal palmetto
Sagittaria latifolia	Saururus cernuus
Taxodium disticum

In and out of the mangroves opening up into a marsh rising with wood storks (Myceteria americana) and on the ground:

Spartina bakerii	Typha spp.
Myrica cerifera	Bumelia reclinata
Mikania scandens	Phragmites australis

At which point we took another GPS reading: E472857, N2861495

Again we paddled, a group merrily singing as many tunes as they could or could not remember melodies and words to. As the river opened considerably, we noticed the shell middens on the eastern "shore". These were relatively conspicuous as there was a nearly 2 m bluff of shell being eroded by the Turner River in a landscape where an elevation of 0.3 cm would have been exceptional. Our foray onto the midden brought out all of south Florida’s mosquito population and suck they did.

I. Mac Perry (1993; Indian Mounds you can visit: 165 aboriginal sites on Florida's West Coast; Great Outdoors Publishing Company) writes as follows about these mounds.

"Near a bend in the river we came upon a most unusual collection of shell middens left by the prehistoric Indians. About twenty-eight middens protrude from the terrain in a most peculiar pattern, one which suggests careful planning. Today, because the middens are so densely covered with mangroves [wrong] and run in lines perpendicular to the river, seeing their overall pattern is impossible.

"The taller mounds are about twelve feet high and sixty or seventy feet wide and equally spaced as seen in the accompanying sketch [included]. Their construction is sand-muck-shell, and they extend more than a quarter of a mile inland. The 'valleys' between the ridges could very well have been canals for dugout canoes to drop off their cache of seafood. William Sears dated these mounds from between a.d. 200 and 900.

"With other nearby mounds so abundant, surely this site was a mecca for the fishing culture that once lived here."

Here the plant life included:

Agave sp.	Ardisia escallinoides
Bumelia salicifolia	Bursera simarouba
Coccoloba diversiloba	Erythrina herbaceae
Eugenia axillaris	Lantana sp.
Pithecellobium keyense (?)	Psychotria nervosa
Rhus radicans	Sabal palmetto
Sapindus saponaria	Shinus terebinthifolia

UTM: E 470702.6, N2859529.6

After seeing this most diverse community yet, and being eaten alive, we disembarked for the take-out. Paddling against the crosswind in the open water, looking for birds we saw: Osprey, Yellow-crowned night herons

Continuing to paddle under a bridge, into more wind, and towards the dock until we landed, pleasurably sunburnt, tired and hungry (ca. 4:00 pm)

Then the decision to walk on a beautiful cypress boardwalk was handed down, we loaded up the vehicles and off we went!

Cypress Boardwalk, Big Cypress National Preserve

Upon reaching the glorious stand of old cypress our leader was overheard to say: “Virgin cypress, means, not @#*$% over by humans.”

The boardwalk was peaceful, the giant baldcypress magnificent, we took our time to investigate. Perhaps most spectacular of all was the sighting of three Pileated Woodpeckers at one time on the same tree! At the far end of the boardwalk were two ponds, the first forested with a lush growth of Thalia, and the second open with a happy community of reptiles of various sorts.

Taxodium distichum	Roystonea regia
Cornus foemina	Ficus aurea
Hippocratea volubilis	Smilax sp.
Osmunda regalis	Acer rubrum
Fraxinus caroliniana

Pileated woodpecker	Great blue heron
American bittern	Long-eared squirrel
Little blue heron	Juvenile American Alligators
Sphinx-moth caterpillar (upwards of 12 cm long and 1.5 cm wide)

Thursday - March 11

Big Cypress National Preserve

Compiled by Becky Brown and Ken Wurdack

At 7:37 AM, we broke camp, giving the last cup of coffee to the campers next door, who were camping from their three-wheel motor cycle. I, for one, was glad to go, despite the showers. In general, the campground was crowded and noisy with RVs plugged in everywhere, the white noise mumble of radios and televisions, and neon lights that prevented any real enjoyment of the night sky. (Bob found a lost fannypack in the showers and was contemplating taking it to the office when he discovered a loaded pistol therein …). But the campground did have the distinction of offering free coffee!

On the way to Big Cypress, we stopped to pick up Jim Snyder and the other Jim from the National Park Service Office (mile 279.8). The office looked like a cheap motel and indeed the structure was converted from motel to government office in the eighties. Jim Snyder was a UNC master’s student in a former life and was our main guide for the day. Jim #2 is a botanist for the NPS and was very helpful with plant identification.

We traversed 11-mile road (mile 303.5) to get to the heart of Big Cypress. Although the land is park property, the mineral rights are privately owned and oil exploration is proceeding at a rapid pace. Eleven-mile road is guarded (because of current oil exploration and seismic work by Calumet Florida, Incorporated; the oil is 11-12,000 feet deep) by an old security guard with missing teeth and a CB radio. For every mile traversed on 11-mile road, for safety the driver must check in with the old security guard using the CB radio set to channel 13, “Mile number 2, two vehicles inbound”. The stated purpose of this is to prevent a head-on collision with large trucks that can’t be bothered to watch out for oncoming traffic, though one can imagine other purposes not so explicitly stated. Fortunately, oil extraction is from pads with several angled wells drilled at each pad; this minimizes the above-ground disturbance.

11-mile road follows an elevational transect from cypress domes to old growth pineland, currently the site of oil exploration. The cypress area along the road is burned at two-year intervals to prevent human started fires from spreading. Jim Snyder noted that wax myrtle grows in areas of Big Cypress that have been previously farmed. Big cypress was named for the expansive size of the place, not for the trees; we saw >100-year-old cypress trees with dbh < 10 cm. The fire managers here practice winter, dry season burns which were also practiced by indigenous people and cattle ranchers. Some winter burns are caused by lightening, though lightening is more of a factor July through August. Although most lightening fires are started July-August, these fires tend to be low intensity since this is the wet season. The highest intensity fires (and the time when the most area is burned) occurs in May, at the end of the dry season when lightening is starting to become more frequent. The severity of a fire in Big Cypress is determined by measuring the percent of crown damaged, the height of char, and tree mortality after one year.

On the air photos brought by Jim Snyder, we observed that cypress domes look like red pimples with open spots in the middle where deep water precludes treegrowth. Periphyton appears gray on the photos. Red represents old-growth pineland.

Periphyton is a material, part algae, which occurs in wet areas of Big Cypress and the Everglades. During drought or the dry season, the periphyton dries out and forms a whitish mat on the ground. This material is pervasive throughout Big Cypress except in the dry pineland sites.

Along 11 mile road in Big Cypress:

Stunted 100+ year old cypress (Taxodium ascendens)

Cladium jamaicense

Cassytha filiformis (parasitizes plants in the first two years after the burn)

Melaleuca quinquenervia stumps (controlled). Melaleuca was originally planted at Monroe Station. See the movie “Gone Fishing” with Danny Glover and Joe Pesci – filmed in Monroe Station.

Paspalum monostachyum

Florida Box Turtle

Pullout 9

UTM 504797E; 2864107N

East-side of road:

We finished up with a final dash around the Fern Garden Trail loop. The area was very dry and the abundant Vittaria was poorly visible as shriveled strands against the Sabal palmetto trunks. Exotic ferns were rampant, especially Boston ferns (those rude invasive northerners). We crossed a nice Thalia swamp on the way out. As we drove south toward Archbold, we contemplated the dining options. After splitting into eat-in (home-cooked spaghetti in the cabins) versus eat-out factions, autocracy ruled and we settled for good and cheap pizza. In the evening the boys visited the girls for song and drinking and on returning home took in the skyline views (a.k.a. Smokey the Bear).

Saturday - March 13

Ken’s favorite scrub site

Compiled by: Mary James & Weimin Xi

USGS Quad: Lake Arbuckle SW

UTM: 459543 N; 3045121 E

On Saturday morning, the crew convened for a leisurely breakfast in the dining hall of Archbold Biological Station. The cereal never tasted so good, but the coffee paled in comparison to the French press variety to which we had grown accustomed. After last-minute postcard writing was complete, we spent a few minutes hacking in the parking lot. Indeed, it was a momentous occasion. For the first time and briefly, Captain Bob joined the circle, astounding us all with his hacking prowess. It was a beautiful morning, and the fog lifted quietly over the scrub.

We drove a while, shortly arriving at Ken’s special scrub site outside of Sebring. Not long had we been out of our vehicles, when what should arrive behind us but a spiffy van carrying a load of Dukies!

Judging from the density of oaks, it seemed as if this scrub had not seen fire in some time. Even so, we chanced across several Lake Wales Ridge endemics. Particularly enchanting was the beautiful Prunus geniculata, which was blooming on the fringe of the dense scrub. According to Ken, this lovely plum was discovered by Roland Harper as he rode the rails through this area early in the century.

The overstory was sparse and consisted of Pinus clausa and Pinus palustris or Pinus elliottii var. densa, we never were able to determine. The sub-canopy contained Quercus geminata, Quercus laevis, Quercus myrtifolia, Quercus chapmanii, Sabal eatonii, Carya floridana, and occasional young pines.

Other species: Aristida berychiana, Stipa avenaceoides, Rhus copallina, Licania michauxii, Tillandsia usneoides, Tillandsia recurvata, Lupinus diffusus, Tephrosia spicata, Dalea pinnata, Rhynchosia cinerea, Garberia fruticosa, Opuntia humifusa, Erigonum tomentosa, Eriogonum floridana, Stipulicida setacea, Tradescantia roseolens, Pteridium aquilinum, Palafoxia feayii, Smilax sp., Turnera sp., Yucca sp., Bumelia sp., and Lechea sp.

The endemic Chionanthus successfully eluded us, but all present dutifully strained their eyes during the search.

Ocala National Forest Chamaecyparis thyoides swamp

UTM: 436536 N; 3230171 E.

Accompanying documentation: USGS Quad: Juniper Springs

Relevant literature:

Ward, D.B. 1963. Southeastern limit of Chamaecyparis thyoides. Rhodora 65: 359-363.

**Ward, D.B. and A.F. Clewell. 1989. Atlantic white cedar (Chamaecyparis thyoides) in the southern states. Florida Scientist 52 (1): 8-47. Excellent description of this stand!!!

Having deposited two of the three females at the Orlando Airport, the remaining sojourners headed north and homeward. We’re not sure about the other vehicle, but things were very mellow in 299. Around 2:00, we arrived at the banks of Juniper Creek (see map). The lunch consisted of various leftover odds and ends, which were casually consumed in the grass by the creek.

Having supped, the remaining seven headed about a mile back the way we had come, south on HWY 19. After missing the pull-off a few times, Ken (at last) informed us that we had reached the spot and would have to walk into the magical white cedar glade on foot. A short walk down a road of deep “ball-bearing” sand, replete with snail fossils, brought us to our destination.

At the Morman Branch crossing, we headed south along the east side of the run and shortly entered a forest containing the biggest Atlantic white cedars most of us had ever seen. Four randomly selected giants yielded the following dbh’s (cm): 26, 64, 65, 71. Other exceptionally large specimens included Gordonia lasianthus (21.9 cm.) and Magnolia virginiana (30, 37, 48, 49.8 cm). Sabal palmetto, Quercus nigra, Persea palustris, and Acer rubrum also occurred as dominants.

The Ocala stand was unknown to botanists until 1962, and unknown to everybody in our group but Ken until today. Aside from the white cedars, other species of special interest were the climbing pieris (Pieris phillyreifolia), Isoetes flaccida, Salix floridana (in bloom), Habenaria odontopetala (in bloom), and Parnassia grandifolia.

For future reference, we recommend that you look out for fire ants (Solenopsis invicta) and seed ticks while marveling over the big trees and rich herbaceous layer in the Ocala Stand. Our dear Captain Bob had an unfortunate encounter with some particularly pernicious fire ants while he was getting a dbh on a large white cedar. The little buggers crawled all up in his pantlegs, necessitating the removal of those pants. We all agreed that the removal was amazingly discreet given the immediacy of the situation.

The other species we encountered are indicated by “*” in the species list that follows (Ward & Clewell, 1989). We did not see Ilex coriacea, but did witness several Ilex cassine, and believe the I. coriacea identification may have been in error. Also, we discovered an occasional Mitchella repens, which was not mentioned in the 1989 species list:

A partial list of birds observed during the excursion

Critical References

General

*Craighead, F.C. 1971. The trees of South Florida, Vol. 1. The natural environments and their succession. Univ. Miami Press, Coral Gables, FL.

Florida Natural Areas Survey. 1990. Guide to the native communities of Florida. 111 pp.

James, C.W. 1961. Endemism in Florida. Brittonia 13:225-244.

Gleason, P.J. (ed.) 1974. Environments of South Floirda: Past and Present. Miami Geological Society. Memoir 2. 452 pp.

Larson, R. 1995. Swamp song: a natural history of Florida's swamps. Univ. Press of Florida. 214 pp.

Myers, R.L. & Ewel, J.J. (eds.) 1990. Ecosystems of Florida. Univ. Central Florida Press, Orlando.

Randazzo, A.F. & Jones, D.S. (eds.) 1997. The Geology of Florida. University of Florida Press. 327 pp.

Everglades

Avery, G.N. & Loope, L.L. 1983. Plants of Everglades National Park: A preliminary checklist of vascular plants. Rpt T-574.

Davis, S.M. & Ogden, J.C. 1994. Everglades: The ecosystem and its restoration. St. Lucie Press. 826 pp.

Egler, F.E. 1952. Southeast saline everglades vegetation, Florida, and its management. Vegetatio 3:213-265.

*Lodge, T.E. 1994. The Everglades handbook: Understanding the Ecosystem. St. Luci Press. 228 pp.

Loveless, C.M. 1959. A study of the vegetation in the Floirda Everglades. Ecology 40:1-9.

*Odum, W.E. & McIvor, C.C. 1990. Mangroves. Pp 517-548 in Myers, R.L. & Ewel, J.J. (eds.) 1990. Ecosystems of Florida. Univ. Central Florida Press, Orlando.

Olmstead, I.C. & Loope, L.L.. 1984. Plant communities of Everglades National Park. In P. Gleason (ed.) Environments of South Floirda: Past and Present. Miami Geological Society. Memoir 2:167-184.

Olmsted, I.C., Loope, L.L. & Hilsenbeck, C.E. 1980. Tropical hardwood hammocks of the interior of Everglades National Park and Big Cypress National Preserve. T-604.

Olmsted, I., Robertson, W.B. Johnson, J. & Bass, O.L. 1983. The vegetation of Long Pine Key, Everglades National Park. Rpt. SFRC-83/05/

Snyder, J.R. 1986. The impact of wet season and dry season prescribed fires on Miami rock ridge pineland, Everglades National Park. SFRC-86/06.

*Snyder, J.R. 1990. South Florida Rockland. Pp 230-280 In Myers, R.L. & Ewel, J.J. (eds.) 1990. Ecosystems of Florida. Univ. Central Florida Press, Orlando.

Keys

Jaap, W.C. 1984. The ecology of South Florida coral reefs: a community profile. US Fish & Wildlife Service FWS/OBS - 82/08. 138 pp.

*Ross, M.S., O'Brian, J.J. & Flynn, L.J. 1992. Ecological site classification of Florad Keys terrestrial habitats. Biotropica 24(4):488-502.

Ross, M.S., Obrian, J.J. & Sternberg, L.D.L. 1994. Sea-level rise and the reduction in pine forests in the Florida keys. Ecol. Applications 4:144-156.

Big Cypress & Fakahatchee

Austin, D.F., Jones, J.L., Bennett, B.C. 1990. Vascular plants of Fakahatchee Strand State Preserve Florida USA. Fl. Scientist 53(2): 89-117

Black, D.W. & Black, S. 1980. Plants of Big Cypress National Preserve: A preliminary checklist of vascular plants. Rpt. T-587.

Duever, M.J. et al. 1986. Th Big Cypress National Preserve. National Audubon Society. (Reprinting of 1979 Edition)

Gunderson, L. & Loope, L.L. 1982. A survey and inventory of the plant communities in the Raccoon Point Area, Big Cypress National Preserve. Rpt. T-665.

Gunderson, L., Loope, L.L. & Maynard, W.R. 1982. An inventory of the plant communities of the Turner River Area: Big Cypress National Preserve, Florida. Rpt. T-648.

Ripple, J. 1992. Big Cypress Swamp and the Ten Thousand Islands: Eastern North America's last great wilderness. U. South Carolina Press. 137 pp.

Archbold, Lake Wales Ridge, & Florida Scrub

Abrahamson, W.G. & Hartnett, D.C. 1990. Pine flatwoods and dry prairies. Pgs 103-149 in Myers, R.L. & Ewel, J.J. (eds.) 1990. Ecosystems of Florida. Univ. Central Florida Press, Orlando.

*Abrahamson, W.G., Johnson, A.F., Layne, J.N. & Peroni, P.A. 1984. Vegetation of the Archibold Biological Station, Florida: an example of the southern Lake Wales Ridge. Fl. Scientist 47:209-250.

Laessle, A.M. 1958. The origin and successional relationship of sandhill vegetation and sand-pine scrub. Ecol. Monogr. 28:361-387.

Menges, E.S., Abrahamson, W.G., Givens, K.T., Gallo, N.P. & Layne, J.N. 1993. Twenty years of vegetation change in five long-unburned Florida plant communities. J. Veg. Sci. 4:375-386.

Menges, E.S. & Salzman, V.T. 1992. Archibold Biological Station Plant List. 79 pp.

*Myers, R.L. 1990. Scrub and high pine. Pp 150-193 in Myers, R.L. & Ewel, J.J. (eds.) 1990. Ecosystems of Florida. Univ. Central Florida Press, Orlando.

Van der Kloet, S.P. 1986. Plant list of the Archbold Biological Station. 80 pp.

Woolfenden, G.E. & Fitzpatrick, J.W. 1991. Florida scrub jay ecology and conservation. Pp 542-565 in C.M. Perrins et al. (eds.), Bird population studies: relevance to conservation and management.

Woolfenden, G.E. & Fitzpatrick, J.W. 1987. The Florida scrub jay: demography of a cooperative-breeding bird. Monographs in Population Biology 20. Princeton Univ. Press.

Taxonomy & species biology

Craighead, F.C. 1963. Orchids and other air plants of the Everglades National Park. Univ. Miami Press. 127 pp.

Lakela, O. & Long, R.W. 1976. Ferns of Florida. Banyon Books. 178 pp.

Long, R.W. & Lakela, O. 1971. A flora of tropical Florida. Univ. Miami Press. 962 pp.

Luer, C.A. 1972. Native orchids of Florida. New York Botanical Garden. 293 pp.

Nelson, G. 1996. The shrubs and woody vines of Florida. Pineapple Press. 391 pp.

Nelson, G. 1994. The trees of Florida. Pineapple Press. 338 pp.

*Scurlock, J.P. 1987. Native trees and shrubs of the Florida Keys. Florida Keys Land Trust. 220 pp.

Taylor, W.K. 1998. Florida wildflowers in their natural communities. Univ. Press of Florida. 370 pp.

Tomlinson, P.B. 1980. The biology of trees native to tropical Florida. Harvard Univ. Printing Office. 480 pp.

*Wunderlin, R.P. 1998. Guide to the vascular plants of Florida. Univ. Press of Florida. 806 pp.

Accommodations

Saturday - March 6

Casuarina equisetifolia (Australian Pine)

Pinus elliotii var. densa (South Florida Slash Pine)

Serenoa repens (Saw palmetto)

Coco nucifera (Coconut palm)

Coccoloba diversifolia (Pigeon Plum)

Abrus precatorius

Anemia adiantifolia

Aster adnatus

Chamaesyce deltoidea

Croton discolor

Metopium toxiferum

Opuntia humifusa

Pteridium caudatum

Quercus hemispherica

Tephrosia angustissima

Zamia pumila

Cypress Head

Andropogon glomeratus

Boehmeria cylindrica

Nephrolepsis exaltata

Parthenocissus quinquefolium

Passiflora suberosa

Taxodium ascendens

Aletris bracheata

Cladium jamaicense

Acrostichum danaeifolium

Batis maritima

Rhizophora mangle

Schinus terebinthifolius

Plants:

Batis maritima

Borrichia frutescens

Distichlis spicata

Lisium caroliniana

Salicornia virginica

Schinus terebinthifolius

Typha domingensis

Myrica cerifera

Potamogeton sp.

Vitis rotundifolia

Chrysopyllum oliviforme

Erythrina herbacea

Exothea paniculata

Ficus aurea

Melothrea pendula

Myrica cerifera

Persea borbonia

Pleopeltus polypodioides

Polypodium aureum

Polypodium phyllitidis

Quercus virginiana

Simarouba glauca

Swietenia mahogoni

Vitis rotundifolia/munsoniana

Vittaria lineata

Sorghastrum secundum Eragrostis elliottii Panicum hemitomum

Stop #2: 10:00 am: UTM: 537190 E; 2809267 N

Compiled by Mark Knott and Ken Wurdack

Eleocharis cellulosa

Acacia pinetorum

Guettarda scabra

Campyloneuron phyllitidis

Chrysophyllum oliviforme

Eugenia sp.

Ficus aurea

Psychotria nervosa

Tillandsia spp.

Nectandra (Ocotea) coriacea

Parthenocissus quiquefolia

A Canoe Journey Down the Turner River

Cladium jamaicense

Paspalum monostachyum

East-side of road:

Cladium jamaicense

Erianthus giganteus

Helenium pinnatifidum

Annona glabra

Nymphoides aquatica